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I bought a used intel Mac Mini 6 months ago (1.5 Core Solo) with the intention of upgrading the processor. It was only last May that I found an affordable processor to use in the upgrade. So I followed various online guides such as the one on http://www.o0o.it/mini/ and put in a 1.66 Core2Duo.

Just recently, I had the need to upgrade my hard drive so I decided to upgrade the processor again (this time to a 1.83 Core2Duo). I got the parts needed yesterday and did an upgrade. With the encouragement of philmugger skinhead I decided to document it in this guide.

MAC MINI PROCESSOR UPGRADE

Warnings:

Do this at your own risk. This is NOT an Apple approved proceedure. You will void your warranty and you run the risk of turning your Mac into a pretty white and silver paperweight.

Unplug the Mac before working on it. Be sure to ground yourself properly before touching any components that can be damaged by ESD.

Work in a clean and well lit work area, you will need to see what you are doing and keep track of of small screws and wires.

Take your time. I know the anticipation of a Mac startup ‘Bong’ after the upgrade is exciting but you really don’t want to end up breaking anything. Take time to study my guide and others on the net before starting.

Parts and Tools:

Intel based Mac Mini
Intel Yonah or Merom mobile CPU that runs at 667 Mhz
Putty knife / Scraper (for opening the case)
Small philips head screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver
Torx screwdriver (I think its a #4)
Long nose/Needle nose pliers
Thermal paste (important!!!)
Acetone/Etanol (to clean off the old thermal paste)




Opening the Mac Mini:

There are numerous guides and videos online so I won’t go into detail on this. Just pop off the top with your favorite putty knife or scraper. Here is a good reference:

http://www.smashsworld.com/2005/01/m...-technical.php

One tip I can give is to put masking tape along the aluminum edge so you have some protection from scratches.

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Removing the drive assembly:

The drive assembly covers the logic board and RAM slots so I you have upgraded your RAM you probably know what to do. First, pop off the Airport antenna as its blocking a screw. It is held in place by two clips. Just squeeze the two black clips together from under the antenna and it will come off (don’t loose the spring underneath).




Unplug the connectors for the power switch ( rear right under the airport antenna) and fan (front right near the battery), use tweezers if you have fat fingers.







Remove the 4 black screws that hold the assembly to the bottom. Note that the screw at the front right corner is longer than the rest.





There is one more connection at the back of the drive assembly; it’s the ribbon cable for the audio connectors. Some tutorials say you don’t have to remove this and just flip the assembly over to get to the board underneath. That’s fine for installing RAM but I would rather remove the drive assembly completely for this upgrade. Gently pry up the brown lock ('up' if the mini is sitting flat on the table) and slide out the cable.



Just lift the entire assembly off. Note where the cable for the Airport antenna passes (between the fan duct and audio board).



At this point you can do a HDD and RAM upgrade too.

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Removing the Logic Board

Now that you have unobstructed access to the logic board it’s a simple matter of removing the screw that holds it to the bottom plate and a single LED connector. Note that the “screws” is an aluminum mounting post that requires a torx screw to remove. If you dont have a torx the small flathead screwdriver fits and will work (this is from the standard precision screwdriver set that you can buy in stores)








Lift out the board and place it on a flat surface with a towel or thick cloth underneath. Lift up the front until it clears the plastic clips and pull it forward since the audio board prevents you from liifting it straight out.





Removing the Heatsink:

Take the time to note the orientation of the heatsink so you remember how to put it back.



The heat sink was not designed to be user removable so it doesn’t have a quick release clip or clamp. Its held in place by 4 spring loaded nylon posts with expanding clips at the end.





To remove the posts we will have to squeeze the expanding clips on the underside of the board to allow them to fit through the mounting holes. IF YOU BREAK THE CLIPS YOU ARE IN TROUBLE SO BE CAREFUL!

Since they are tensioned we have to take care in removing them so that the heat sink doesn’t flip sideways and break something.

My method is to flip the entire board over. Rest the board on the upside down heat sink, support the board by firmly pressing it down against the heat sink. Squeeze the clips with needle nose pliers (you may have to wiggle the post a bit to get it through the hole. Do this for all posts making sure to keep the board level. With all posts removed the heat sink can be removed from the core. It may stick because of the thermal paste, just give it a firm pull. Dont yank too hard as there is a thermal diode connected to the heat sink and you don’t want to rip off the wire.



There is a diode at the bottom of the heat sink for measuring the temp. Some tutorials have you pry it off but its pretty much glued in so I just remove the connector on the board. Now clean off the old thermal paste from the heatsink. Set it aside for now.

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Upgrading the Processor:

Now we get to the point of this guide, swapping the CPU. This is actually the easiest bit. Just loosen the PPGA socket bu turning the locking screw with a flathead screwdriver. Its only a half turn so don’t overdo it!



Lift the old processor straight up (note the orientation). Drop in the new one, make sure its flush with the socket and lock it in place by turning the screw. Ta da!





Putting back the Heat Sink:

This is a bit tricky, I’m sure there are better ways to do this so feel free to invent your own method.

Basically we are trying to mount a heavy greased up block of aluminum on a fragile silicon core and brittle circuit board using four spring loaded tabs that are too big for the hole they go into. Nice!

My method: I use a roll of tape as a platform for the board. I position the socket over the center of the roll so that there is free space below the mounting holes to allow the posts to go through. The round tape roll provides ample and even support for the board so I minimize the risk of flexing the board as I work.

Put a dab of thermal paste on the processor (be sure its clean to begin with), just a small dot is enough.





Plug the temperature diode back into the board. Position the heat sink above the processor. Try to get it as centered as possible, once you place it on top of the core you want to move it as little as possible to avoid displacing the paste. Using the Philips screwdriver or any suitable long implement push down on one of the nylon posts so that it goes through the hole in the board. Do the same for the remaining three posts.



If you broke any of the posts during removal or break them now you are screwed! Seriously, don’t run the processor with only three posts in place, if the heat sink is not perfectly even your processor will overheat. One of sites that did speed tests with various processors in a Mini eventually broke one. They replaced all four with nylon screws and washers with the original spring. I don’t know where to find nylon screws so I hope you didn’t break any.



Reassemble:

Do everything in reverse.

Don’t forget the LED and power cables. Make sure the ribbon cable is seated properly if not then you will have no audio.

Test:

Run the initial test with the cover off so you save some time if you have to re-do something.

Just plug it in, press the power button and pray. If all goes well then you should hear the “Bong!” and boot into OSX. Check the “About this Mac” pane to verify the processor information.



If it boots but there is no 'Bong' and there is no volume control in the menu bar then the ribbon cable isn't seated well.

Run a temperature monitoring utility to make sure that the heat sink is seated well. I get between 48-60 degrees from idle to 100% CPU utilization.

Run benchmarks and applications to enjoy the new speed.


If it won't boot recheck all the connections particularly the seating of the drive interface board and power switch connector.

nice.... tnx.. but im to chicken to do this... ahehehe!!

[Maverick]

nice tutorial empty... now if only i still had a mini.... hehehe

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Well you can swap your D200 for mine he he!

[Maverick]

hehehehe good try empty... :P

[dvsadvocate]

This is hardcore modding stuff! I hope you can also do this on a Macbook!

[suavecito]

Now im really tempted to get a Mini Intel core solo!